Best Way to Paint a Cedar Siding House

Preparation

Preparing Siding Earlier Finishing

Good surface training practices are essential to achieve a durable, long-lasting exterior end. Most premature outside coating failures are attributable to inadequate surface preparation resulting in:

poor finish coat adhesion
surface discoloration
lack of end coat uniformity (sheen, colour and surface hiding)
lack of corrosion resistance

The start step in surface training is to inspect the surface and make whatever necessary repairs. The surface must then exist cleaned to be free of all dirt, mildew and loose material.

New (not weathered) Western Red Cedar

New cedar siding and trim should be protected from the conditions before, during and later on construction. It is seldom necessary to deport out extensive surface grooming providing the wood has not weathered for more than two weeks and is clean and dry. The moisture content should ever be checked as a precaution. The moisture content cannot be above twenty% and if the wood has been contaminated past dirt, oil or other strange substances, the contaminants must be removed.

Dirt should be done from the surface (see department on cleaning and discoloration). For smooth-planed, apartment-grained cedar, some surface training may be desirable. On apartment grained wood, the surface should be scuff-sanded with fifty-60 grit sandpaper. This procedure will profoundly increase the coatings performance but will not backbite from a smooth appearance. Surface preparation is non necessary for make clean textured cedar.

Acrylic-Based Stains

Applying Paint and Solid Colour Stains

Outside Western Scarlet Cedar surfaces only demand to be refinished when the old blanket has worn thin and no longer affords the wood protection. In refinishing painted or solid-colour stained siding and trim, removal of the quondam coating may be required. This is necessary if, for example, the sometime end is severely croaky or is peeling. These finishes can exist removed by a variety of procedures, all of which can be hard, fourth dimension consuming and expensive processes. Some of these procedures can impairment the forest. For example, power washing should never be used for removing coatings from Western Red Cedar because this process can severely harm the woods surface fibers and get in difficult for the adjacent finish to adhere properly.

Using Solid Colored Finishes

Western Red Cedar that has been finished with paints or solid-color stains is all-time refinished with the same type of stop originally applied. Remember, that proper surface preparation and cleaning before refinishing are essential for optimal performance of the new finish coat or coats.

Important Note: Old latex coatings should e'er be refinished with latex coatings and never with oil-based coatings. Sometime oil-based finishes tin exist refinished with latex finishes but when the onetime oil-based finish has been properly cleaned and a primer coat applied commencement.

To refinish the old surface, first scrape away all loose, cracked or peeling cease. Sand the bare wood and any remaining finish to "plumage" the edges smooth with the bare wood. Mildew must be killed and removed before Western Ruby-red Cedar is refinished, or the mildew will grow through the new paint coat or solid-color stain. Removal can be done with a commercial mildew remover or with dilute solutions of liquid household (oxygen based) bleach followed by thorough rinsing with clean water. Later on these preparations, scrub the surface with a stiff bristle (not wire) brush and water, and rinse with clean water. Let the washed surface to dry out earlier recoating and apply primer paint to areas of bare wood. After the primer has dried, utilize one or two topcoats of paint or solid-color stain. Two topcoats are always meliorate over blank wood that has been primed.

These may be applied to Western Ruddy Cedar by brush, roller, or pad. Castor awarding is usually the all-time. These stains perform similarly and are practical like paint. Ane coat of solid-color stain is simply marginally adequate on new wood. A prime number coat with a top glaze volition always provide better protection to the wood also as promoting a longer service.

Optimal operation tin can be obtained if the wood is primed, so given two coats of stain. Top coats of acrylic latex solid color stains are generally superior to all others, especially when two coats are practical over a primer. Dissimilar pigment, a solid-color stain may exit lap marks. To prevent lap marks, follow the procedures suggested for semi-transparent penetrating stains.

Oil-Based Stains

Applying A Transparent/Semi-Transparent Finish & Bleaching Oils

Oil & Water Repellent Stains

Oil finishes and water-repellent preservatives can be renewed by a simple cleaning of the old surface with a stiff bristle (non-metallic) brush and water followed by an application of a new coat of finish. In some cases, a mild scrubbing with a detergent followed past rinsing with h2o is appropriate. In more than desperate cases, mildew cleaners must be used. The second coat of water-repellent preservative will last longer than the first considering more can be applied as information technology penetrates into small surface checks which open every bit the woods weathers. The rougher the surface, the more stop can be applied, and the longer the service life.

Semi-transparent oil-based penetrating stains are relatively easy to refinish. Excessive scraping and sanding are non usually required. Simply use a potent bristle (not-metallic) brush to remove all surface clay, dust, and loose wood fibers. Following proper cleaning to impale mildew contamination, apply a new coat of stain. The second coat of penetrating stain often lasts longer than the beginning glaze because more can be practical as it penetrates into small surface checks.

Important Note: Steel wool and wire brushes should never exist used to clean Western Crimson Cedar. Metal deposits can react with chemicals naturally occurring in the cedar to yield dark blue-black stains on the surface.

Latex and Oil Semi-Transparent Stains

Y'all have the option to employ semi-transparent stains by brush, spray, pad, or roller. Brushing will usually give the best penetration and performance. Spray or roller awarding followed past back-brushing is also an acceptable method of awarding. Oil-based stains are generally thin and runny, and then awarding can be messy.

Lap marks tin be prevented past staining continuous lengths. This method prevents the front end edge of the stained expanse from drying before a logical stopping place is reached. Working in the shade is desirable because the drying rate is slower. Stain that has been applied by spray, without back-brushing, is prone to bear witness blotchy patterns equally information technology weathers.

Two coats of penetrating oil-based stain on textured Western Carmine Cedar will provide a longer service life than ane coat, simply just if the wood will have the second coat. Stir the stain thoroughly during awarding to forestall settling and color change. Avert mixing different brands or batches of stain.

Latex semi-transparent stains do not penetrate the wood surface, but they are easy to apply and less probable to form lap marks. These stains are film-forming and may not exist as durable as oil based stains.

The surface condition of the wood on which the end is applied tin essentially bear on the performance and life expectancy of the finish.

Bleaching Oils

Weathering stains and bleaching oils are refinished the aforementioned mode every bit the semi-transparent oil based penetrating stains. Semi-transparent latex stains deed more like very sparse paints and may crave more than extensive surface training (scraping, sanding, etc.) earlier being refinished. Intendance should be taken not to build-upward the film thickness by recoating too oft. Manufacturers' instructions should be followed carefully.

The awarding of a finish on Western Red Cedar is as important for durability and optimal performance as is the terminate-substrate combination called for the task. Finishes can be brushed, rolled, sprayed or practical past dipping. The application technique, the quality and quantity of finish applied, the surface condition of the substrate, and the weather weather at the time of application can substantially influence the life expectancy of the end. The application guidelines suggested here should be followed in combination with the manufacturer's grooming and application recommendations for the production.

Finishes and cleaners are chemicals which may pose wellness hazards from contact, ingestion or by inhaling. So be sure to carefully read the all of the manufacturers' application instructions and warnings prior to purchasing the product.

Natural Weathering

Letting Western Red Cedar Weather Naturally

Uncoated, weathered Western Red Cedar siding or trim can often be restored to its original color by applying commercial products called cleaners, brighteners or restorers. Although intended primarily for restoring horizontal wood surfaces such as decks, these products more often than not work almost equally well on vertical surfaces. Some products are formulated with thickening agents to assist the liquid cling better to vertical surfaces.

Western Red Cedar performs satisfactorily as a decking and siding production if it is left unfinished to weather naturally.

Y'all may choose this choice due to:

A preference for the argent grey look of naturally weathered Western Crimson Cedar;
A desire not to invest the time and effort required to maintain the stop on a cedar product;
Project inaccessibility, causing difficulty in maintaining the finish on a Western Ruddy Cedar project, for example, siding on very alpine buildings; or,
A concern nigh the environmental touch of applying a finish on your Western Crimson Cedar.

These are all valid considerations and the reality is that Western Red Cedar siding and decking can take a long service life without a finish coating in many environments – as long every bit good design, installation and maintenance practices are followed.

It is important to understand that the choice not to utilise a finish to your cedar product has long-term implications. This selection requires advance consideration earlier you allow natural weathering to brainstorm. As Western Cherry Cedar weathers, it will lose its natural color and become grey. In very dry climates, it weathers to a silvery grey colour, but in almost other climates, because of varying moisture and sun exposure weather condition, the Western Ruby-red Cedar does not weather uniformly and is likely to develop a nighttime, blotchy, grey appearance.

Should you wish to restore weathered cedar to a state where it can be painted or stained nevertheless; significantly more effort will exist required to prepare the surface of the wood for coating. If a truly uniform gray appearance is desired, and so this effect can be achieved past the use of a commercially prepared bleaching oil or grey weathering stain. This is substantially a water-repellent end containing pigments and other additives which is near effective on textured cedar. To maintain this look, the bleaching stain may have to exist re-practical periodically.

Although the natural weathering result is commonly only "skin deep" (less than 1-2mm), with the cedar largely unchanged beneath, actress care must be given to the pattern of the project, the installation of the cedar and routine maintenance. Without the protection provided by a coating against moisture intrusion, (especially end grain sealing), steps must be taken during the installation process to allow Western Crimson Cedar to readily dry following exposure to moisture, otherwise the chance of disuse increases.

All cedar products used in exterior applications crave a degree of maintenance to go along them looking their all-time. Even if the choice is fabricated not to apply a finish to Western Red Cedar, contaminants such equally dirt and mildew should be regularly removed to maintain its cute, natural appearance.

Environmental Product Declarations of Western Red Cedar siding and decking shows it has the most benign environmental impact of all the alternative production choices for those building applications. Coatings, especially the solvent borne finishes and the frequency of their awarding negatively impact the LCA of cedar siding and decking. This impact may influence a determination not to apply a finish. Fortunately, a new generation of more than environmentally friendly, h2o borne, coatings are emerging and these products should be considered.

¹Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is used to appraise the ecology functioning of a production from cradle to grave.

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Source: https://www.realcedar.com/siding/finishing/